Many of us rarely think about the history of DC neighborhoods. Paul Williams thinks about it all the time–it’s his job. He’s led historic preservation efforts in the Metro area for almost 20 years and wrote 11 books spotlighting different DC neighborhoods.
Paul’s credentials also include serving as Project Director of the “City Within a City: Greater U Street Heritage Trail” project. Today, as Executive Director of Historic Dupont Circle Main Streets (HDCMS), he turns his attention to one of DC’s hippest neighborhoods.
We had the chance to talk with Paul about Dupont Circle’s hidden “historical gems,” his tips for finding reasonably priced apartments in the neighborhood and more.
Thanks for joining us, Paul. You’ve authored historical books on Dupont Circle, Cleveland Park, Georgetown, U Street, and many other great DC neighborhoods. What sets Dupont Circle apart, both historically and today?
I think what sets apart Dupont Circle both historically and today is the wide variety of diversity in both architecture and culture. We have wood frame houses built in the 1860s for less than $500 on Florida Avenue, and the most expensive private house built in the city in relative terms, the Belmont mansion on New Hampshire Avenue, built in 1907 at a cost of a whopping $500,000; and just about everything in between. Many of the former houses lining Connecticut Avenue have been transformed into shops and restaurants that serve just about any type of international fare you can imagine, all enjoyed by a wide variety of ages, cultures, and prosperity of our inhabitants.
When and why was Historic Dupont Circle Main Streets (HDCMS) created?
HDCMS was formed in 2003 by local business owners as part of a series of Main Streets organized across the city; each follows a successful formula for neighborhood revitalization, celebration, promotion, and business retention as established by the National Trust for Historic Preservation, which also just happens to be located in Dupont Circle. Our goal is to bring more business to our businesses through festivals, group advertising, walking tours, workshops, business meet & greets, events like Soccer in the Circle, all while keeping our oldest established businesses, several with 50 year anniversaries or more, and attracting a new business mix to any storefront that may become vacant.
What specific developments or changes do you hope to you see take place in Dupont Circle during the next few years?
One of our largest and most complex beautification projects that we have been working on for years is about to become reality this winter: the landscaping of the large, raised Connecticut Avenue median between R and S Streets. It may look like a simple task, but figuring out what was there, saving existing trees, installing irrigation, designing for year- round, maximum impact in landscaping for a 40,000-square foot planter located in the middle of six lanes of traffic was a major accomplishment.
Your organization regularly hosts neighborhood events, such as Taste of Dupont and First Saturdays, to support area businesses. Which event is your favorite and why?
I think the Taste of Dupont is my favorite event, which we’ve expanded to twice per year. It’s a great way to visit a restaurant that you may have been thinking about going to, but didn’t want to invest until you got a little taste of what they serve for just $5 or less. It’s also very fun for participants to create their own progressive dinner up and down the streets, who often travel with packs of friends almost on a food treasure hunt. This year’s October 5th event will be our biggest yet.
Many of our readers are renters who would love to live in Dupont Circle but struggle to find apartments in their price range. Are there any “hidden” parts of Dupont that have good deals?
Indeed, if you look carefully and take your time, you can find just the right place that is affordable. I have a friend that just landed a rent controlled apartment at R Street and Connecticut Ave, and others that have found space in English garden apartments tucked under major houses, or rooms for rent in group houses that are so large they tend to feel like your own apartment. Don’t be afraid to take a very small apartment in Dupont, because you really don’t have to leave the neighborhood for anything, and you’ll find yourself enjoying many of the outdoor spaces, patios, restaurants, and recreation.
Please share some of your Dupont Circle favorites.
Inexpensive restaurant: Floriana’s at 1602 17th Street, with a drink at Dito’s bar in the basement afterwards
Upscale restaurant: I think Presidential, with Komi at 1509 17th Street and Restaurant Nora at 2132 Florida Avenue.
Place to satisfy a sweet tooth: Biago Chocolates at 1904 18th Street!
Spot for people-watching: The Dupont Fountain, of course!
Hidden historical gem: The 4-story, Y shaped staircase in the Walsh-McLean mansion (Indonesian Embassy) at 2020 Mass Ave
Favorite DC blog: Greater Greater Washington
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Read last month’s interview with Jacqueline Dupree of JDland.com.
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